DIY Dog House: Floor and Side Walls

Last Updated:

The other posts in this series:

Intro | Drawing & Materials ListRoof | Deck

Building the Floor

Figure 1. The floor.

The floor of the dog house is pretty simple: a sheet of 1/2″ plywood attached to a frame of decay resistant cedar (recycled from the old deck of course). The floor measures 28-3/4″ by 31-3/4″. Once the 5/8″ walls are attached, this brings the outer dimensions of the dog house to 30″ by 33″ (not including the corner trim).

Begin by constructing the base. It is made from 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ boards that are screwed or nailed together.  For a little extra support, I opted to insert a board in the middle of the frame.

Figure 2. Bottom view of base and deck.

Once the frame is built, the plywood floor is screwed onto it and foam insulation panels are inserted in each of the two halves of the base (Figure 2). To hold the panels in place, I ran duct tape along the edges. Screws inserted into the sides of the frame with the heads projecting out would also get the job done.

Side Walls

At this point, the floor is done and it’s time to work on the walls. Start with the two side walls. Cut the outer plywood panels to size (28-3/4″ by 23-3/4″), making sure that the length exactly matches the length of the floor.

Figure 3. Attaching the side walls to the floor.

Create the wall frames using 2″ x 2″ or 2″ x 3″ studs. I used 2″ x 3″ studs for the side walls and 2″ x 2″ studs for the front and back walls because I had both in stock and wanted to use them up. Just keep in mind that the actual dimensions of construction lumber are a half-inch less than the stated dimensions.

Cut the studs to size to frame the perimeter of the wall panels, keeping 1″ exposed on the bottom of each panel for it to overhang the base. Then attach the studs to the panels. For each wall, I used six 2″ screws inserted from the inside – to keep the exterior as hole free as possible. Later on, the screws that hold the exterior corner trim in place will also serve as additional attachment points for the walls to the frames.

Figure 4. Screwing wall to floor.

The side walls are screwed into the floor as shown in Figure 3.  To keep from having to use extremely long screws, I counterbored the screw holes an inch or so (that’s what I get for using 2″ x 3″ studs). I also put in some of the screws at an angle (toe-screwed?) which saves you from having to drill counter bores.

By the way, the drill shown in the picture is my favorite. It’s a reconditioned Black & Decker that I picked up for about $30 some years ago at a factory outlet. It’s lightweight, has a keyless chuck that is easy to grip, and there are no batteries to recharge. What more could one ask for in a drill?

Figure 5. Both side walls attached to the base.

Once both walls are attached to the base, you can go ahead and insert insulation panels inside the frame and then screw on the interior wall panels. The wall panels are made from 1/2″ plywood and are sized to fully cover the framework of the wall (should be about 23″ x 31-3/4″).

Read Next Post in the Series: Front and back walls ->